Corporate Logo

The BFC RR is pleased to display its new corporate logo.

BFC = Blue Foam Central   : )

Why, switch?

I have almost finished wiring the control panel.  It was time to light this candle (or at least power up the LEDs).  Looks great, right?









Well, sort of . . . You may notice that the lights are lit the opposite way the switch is thrown.  You would think that the left terminals of the switch are powered when the toggle is thrown to the left.  You would be wrong.   This  is a cruel joke.  Why, switch?

Now all I need to do is unsolder 12 LED leads and connect 12 criss-crossed jumper wires to fix this.  Gee, only 24 solder joints to go . . . Grr!

Control Panel

Here is the Control Panel with block and turnout controls in the center section, and room for transformers and accessory controls on the side sections.  I put it together with some old pine boards, masonite, a table saw and patience.








Even though I plan to use DCS and TMCC command control, I have concluded that it does not necessarily replace block wiring if you want to run conventional locos as well.   There are times when you want to be able to shut off power to a block.  So I am wiring to allow for command and conventional.  So much for keeping it simple.

Backlit to show the LEDs

Since I need block controls, I decided to splurge on the control panel.  I am wiring up the panel with 2 LEDs in each block (one red and one yellow) that indicate which “cab” (if any) is powering that block.  Also the controllers) for the z2500 switch machines (mounted on the panel also) have red and green LEDs which indicate which way they are thrown.





I did the track diagram with Microsoft Paint, printed it on photo paper, and sandwiched it between a masonite base and a 1/16" plexiglass cover.  The most tedious part was drilling holes in the masonite for the toggles switches, buttons, and LEDs, and cutting out rectangles to insert the Z-Stuff 2502 switch controllers.  The 2502s will be mostly hidden:  only their buttons and LEDs show.  The plexiglass only needed holes for the toggle and pushbutton switches.  On the paper diagram, I cut out circles for all the LEDs and switches with 3mm, 6mm, and 8mm disposable punch biopsies (think cookie cutters).

Paper template to lay out the holes and cutouts

Cutouts for the 2502 Controllers 

So the soldering begins. One half of the DPDT toggles select CAB A or CAB B for its block, and the other half lights up the corresponding red or yellow LED.  The LEDs will be powered from a 4.5V DC power adaptor through current limiting resistors.






This panel will be so cool that you won’t even need to look at the trains . . .